Culinary advice from Jamie Oliver - podcasting food for your ears.

The picture shows its “new” shop situated in an old district in Central, Hongkong. The “new” shop was in operation since mid 90s. Prior to that, they were operating just across the street as a sidewalk stall. When I was a small kid back in the early 60s, my mom would go out every night at about midnight with a little tin pot to buy my dad’s favourite Beef Brisket Noodle in Clear Soup – that was the earliest Kau Kee I can remember.

Kau Kee is renowned for their Beef Brisket 清湯牛腩 and service. My father loved it. I loved it and my children loved it. We left Hongkong for over 6 years now and when we occasionally talked about the things we missed most since we left, Kau Kee Beef Brisket would always be mentioned as one.

First, the food. Kau Kee only do one dish – Beef Brisket. There were two choices for the noodle Soup - clear or curry. They also offered a special higher priced variant called 爽 腩 which literally means crispy beef brisket. The higher priced special would normally be sold out by around 3 pm (they opened around midday) and you should consider yourself lucky if you could order one.

During lunch time, there would always be a long queue outside the shop. Many of these people were well dressed and working in one of the most expensive commercial districts in the world (Kau Kee’s location is just outside the Central business area). If they would spend 30 minutes of their one hour lunch break queuing up, cramped into a seat designed for two small kids with another full grown adult, wait 10 minutes for a bowl of Beef Brisket noodle, consume it in 5 minutes, walk from and back to their office in 15 minutes and still find it worthwhile, maybe it does tell us something about the food. In the evening, there would be another queue. Although not as long as the queue during lunch time, this queue would be mainly made up of Mercedes, BMW and Lexus with a few Porsches and Jaguars in-between and occasionally a Ferrari or two.

Second, the service. Simply put, you cannot find any restaurant, shop, food stall anywhere in the world that offer a worse service. Yes, “worse”. If you find the service at their “new” shop appalling, bear in mind that they did already make some improvements after the relocation. During the days when they were operating as a side-walk stall, they didn’t even bother to put a pair of chopsticks on the table after you had taken a seat. I didn’t know what to do when I first ate in their stall and had to watch and learn the beef brisket etiquette from others. Here what should be done: grab a pair of chopsticks from an open container in the middle of the table, get up and go wash the chopsticks in a pot of boiling water besides the guy who is making the noodles. Why wash? The chopsticks are in an open container and have likely been attracting some flies, bugs, dirt since they are put in place. Why the hot water pot? Not 100% sure but the water is for the soup and maybe this is why the soup is so delicious.

And seriously, one of the reasons why Kau Kee is so successful lies in their selection of brisket. The beef brisket used by Kau Kee is always with good marbling – white fat and a deep color in the meat. The layer of fat is important as it tends to eliminate the tough and gristly texture often associated with beef brisket. The special higher priced version of Kau Kee brisket contains a greater amount of fat evenly distributed throughout the meat.

Shu Wei Cao (鼠尾草) was the winner of the best Chinese Blog for the BOBs award. You can find some great recipes for vegetarian dishes. Take a look at her blog even if you do not understand Chinese. The dishes are pure art!

Add some red pepper flakes and grated Parmesan to taste.

fn¹ “tomato sauce” tends to be a confusing term. It may mean very different things depending on where you are in. It generally means tomato ketchup in Britian, Ireland, India, Australia and New Zealand. In North America, “tomato sauce” refers to “marinara sauce” - a simple quickly-made tomato sauce for pasta without meat. But in Italy, marinara sauce actually refers to seafood sauces for pasta, risotto, or pizza (with or without tomato sauce).

A delicate beverage characterized by its fruity and floral aroma - a result of green leaf cicadas sucking on the tea leaves before they are harvested and fermented. As the infection only happens in a short period during the year, its harvest has to be well timed and handpicked. Supplies of top graded ‘White Hair Oolong” are limited.

The tea has a reputation lasting over a hundred years after it was first introduced to Europe. The Queen of England loved it so much that she named it “Oriental Beauty Tea”. And it has won numerous prizes ever since in all major food exhibitions around the world.

Unlike most alcoholic drink, tequila is not made from grains or fruits. It makes use of a blue agave plant grown in central Mexico. What distinguishes the quality of tequila is largely based upon the percentage of agaves used in the mix. Tequila is commonly distilled only twice to preserve the agaves aroma. Although there are some triple-distilled tequila (especially in the premium brand range) in the market, they are considered by many as merely marketing gimmicks.

Tequila, the 100% agave version, should be served in room temperature and sipped slowly. No mix. The tequila shot with lime and salt is Hollywood stuff and few people who know tequila drink it that way.

The official Mexican standard defines 4 categories of tequila:

1. Blanco or Silver - clear and transparent tequila that started it all. It gives the true bouquet and flavor of the blue agave and is usually strong.
2. Oro or Gold - a lighter version of Blanco with colorant and flavoring additives. Ideal for mixing and is the choice for frozen Margaritas.
3. Reposado or Rested - Blanco aged in white oak casks or vats. Pale in color and is not as strong as Blanco although it still retains much of its blue agave aroma. Sold at a premium and has gained increasing popularity outside Mexico.
4. Añejo - Aged longer than Reposado and therefore tends to lose its agave taste but inherit a woody flavor and an amber color from the oak.

And of course, we cannot write about tequila without mentioning Margarita. According to Forbes, the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess resort in Arizona only charges US$57 for a margarita mixed with Herradura Seleccion Suprema tequila.